Oil, resin on fragment surfboard.
73 x 105 cm.
A normal day,
a different barrel.
And that’s how the encounter went, of Lorenzo Suárez “Seis”.
“It wasn’t a big waves day, I saw a big one coming that was hollow.
I jumped into the water while holding the rail towards the tube, jumped off to the wave base and stayed there but couldn’t pull out.
On that drop I turned the surfboard and in the next wave It came out from the white foam broken in two“.
Lorenzo Suárez “Seis”, CEO In-process & freesurfer.
Photo portrait by Leo Zárate.
Photos surf by Mary & Victor González.