Encounters #DiegoSuárez

Portugal.
A big swell.
A wave.

That’s how Diego’s encounter with the wave went.

“I was with the RipCurl team watching the big wave competition in Nazaré when a mate told us about a shore break that was really good that day, so we went there.

That wave came in, it looked perfect, with a very strong offshore wind. Just as I was about to go down, I saw that it was inaccessible, I threw myself in, and the force of the wave and the wind pushed me forward, causing me to fall headfirst.

With all my teammates shocked, I managed to get out okay, but with the board broken in two”.