Encounters #JaimeMadrid

Lanzarote.
Without thinking.
That’s how Jaime’s encounter went.

“It wasn’t one of the big waves of the day, but I saw it and started paddling.
I go down with difficulty and manage to hold on to the wall of the wave, but when I realize it, the second section is waiting for me, dry and cave-like.

I jump off the board, and that’s when I realize that my day of surfing is over, and I manage to get out of the foam with the board in two pieces.